My goodness, how time flies!
We are quickly approaching Thanksgiving, and here in Limon the city is already decking itself out in Christmas lights. Even the banks here already have their Christmas trees up in the windows. The weather is becoming a bit more like a Southern Winter, too. It rains almost daily and barely cracks 68 degrees or so. In fact, I´d be willing to bet that it hasn´t gotten over 64 degrees since Roman left for the States on Wednesday.
So, now it is cold and the Christmas lights are up, and people are becoming friendlier. Obviously, the people of Costa Rica don´t celebrate Thanksgiving like we do in the States, so they are at liberty to begin the Christmas festivities as early as they please. Stores began to carry Christmas decorations weeks before Halloween, and many houses have had lights up since the beginning of the month. Everyone I know tells me, in their inimitable Creole, that I will "know Christmas in Limon" and that it is the pinnacle of the year. I am very excited.
I am also relieved. I say this because the change in the seasons have brought the softness out of the people of Limon. Living here makes one aware of an existence that we in America have avoided (to our detriment) through our reliance on Credit Cards, and that is the grueling struggle of day-to-day living for people who have nothing to fall back on.
Life for many Limonense folks involves working long days for pennies, trying to stretch what little they have in order to provide for families that always seem to be growing, which I´ve discovered is directly related to the lack of Sexual Education in the schools, and basically just having to fight for whatever they can get. This is compounded by the astonishing growth of the US Dollar, despite our slip into recession. Every time the dollar goes up, the Colon goes down and the prices increase- we all understand basic economics. However, in Limon there is no way to increase what you bring in in order to meet the increased financial needs. This is a place in turmoil and clinging to whatever scraps it can glean.
No clearer example of this exists, in my mind, than when the cruise ships pull into port. If you want to see a city in action, come to Puerto Limon when the boats are in. Everyone clamours about the center of town, hoping to cash in on a piece of Euro-American ennui. They hawk animals crafted from palm branches, necklaces of dyed shells and seeds, paintings, and homemade food, all priced in Dollars- instantly doubling the prices such items would normally command. Children skip school and stand along the perimeter of the park, looking for sloths or birds that they can point out to the Gringos, who will give them a dollar or two in thanks...not realizing that a dollar or two can buy them lunch at a local soda, or maybe even pay part of the phone bill for their parents.
No, the people of Limon can´t just go to Walmart and save a few bucks on their groceries, or install a new faucet so that their water bills aren´t so high. They have to struggle. Watching TV the other night with a few friends lucky enough to have cable, we were watching CNN when an infomercial for a retractable awning came on. Immediately they all turned to me, asking if the product was real, or if the commercial was intended as a joke. To be honest, I wasn´t so sure. They shook their heads and I understood why so many people loathe Americans; how many other countries could provide so much for their people that they could waste it all on such frivolity? Here in Costa Rica there exists little imagination for such inventions- just getting what they NEED is hard enough.
So Christmas is fast approaching, and here in Limon that means bright lights and candies. But it means much more to this Gringo this year. It means that for one month, these people who have struggled and suffered throughout the year to attain those basics that we in America take for granted will dig deep into their hearts and take out the little bit of hope they can afford, and be joyful. Truly joyful. And then they will await the new year and pray that maybe this year will be a little bit better.
If that doesn´t make you feel a little more thankful for all that you have this Thursday, then nothing will.
Have a happy Thanksgiving, and keep praying for the people of this wonderful city.
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